Arizona

Phoenix:

The Heard Museum is a two-for-one experience! While this excellent museum is one of the very best spots to learn about Native American culture, that is not the only reason to visit. The museum gift store is one of the finest places to shop for Native American arts, jewelry and books. Their outstanding collection is a wonderful mix of traditional and contemporary. Each item is authenticated so you need not worry about whether your purchase is the real thing. Be sure to check the museum’s calendar of events for such fantastic experiences as the annual Indian Fair and Market or the World Hoop Dance Championship.   

Bargain shopping at its best can be found at Nordstrom’s Last Chance. If you’re a Nordstrom’s fan, you know that the store has a very generous return policy. Did you ever wonder where all that stuff goes? Well, the end of the line is Last Chance. Don’t expect trendy displays or personal shoppers. And be prepared to do some serious digging through the racks. My husband used to be a bit stand-offish when it came to this store, but he soon learned that he could find some of his favorite Nordstrom pants for a fraction of the price. I’ve scooped up some great handbags and designer items over the years. Hint: Check items carefully for spots or damage and try them on since all sales are final. Don’t go with the intention of finding a specific item.  Go with the flow and treat this store like a treasure hunt. One word of warning—for some, shopping is a contact sport.

Sedona:

You can find all sorts of shopping in the red rock country of Sedona but for a unique and peaceful setting, the best choice is Tlaquepaque. This “village” is patterned after an artist’s colony in Mexico and contains many unique shops, restaurants and galleries. From graceful wind sculptures to beautiful arts and collectibles, you’ll find something that intrigues you. The setting is one of pretty, tree lined courtyards beside Oak Creek and there’s even a small chapel (often used for weddings.)

Cameron:

Cameron Trading Post is located on Highway 89A as you travel from Grand Canyon to Lake Powell.  It was established in 1911 by brothers Hubert & C.D. Richardson who bartered with local Native Americans for dry good and other items. Today, visitors can pick up everything from souvenirs to exceptional Navajo rugs, pottery and more. Often, you’ll find a local weaver creating her next masterpiece in the rug room. Be sure to visit the fine arts gallery located next door to the main building.

Utah:

Bluff:

It might be easy to blink and miss Bluff altogether, but you should make it a point to stop here for several reasons. Be sure to visit the “Foodies” section for my recommendation. As for shopping, one of my favorite spots is Twin Rocks Trading Post. Although smaller than some of the more well-known trading posts, Twin Rocks has an excellent selection of jewelry, folk art, baskets and Navajo Rugs. The owners work with local artists to encourage their talent and it is clear that they genuinely care about the people, not just their art.  Some of my most beautiful jewelry came from Twin Rocks and with each piece, I learned about the artist and the design. Buying here is an experience. Allow time to enjoy it.

Colorado:

Grand Junction:

Grand Juction

Grand Junction is a great starting point for a visit to Moab and other destinations but you should not overlook the great local scenery, art and wineries. Even if you aren’t planning to add a great sculpture to your collection, be sure to take the opportunity to spend a couple of hours browsing through downtown Grand Junction.  This community has an incredible collection of public art scattered throughout a few blocks of the downtown district. In between are pleasant sidewalk cafes and microbreweries.  

For a more authentic western experience, be sure to try Bartels Mancos Valley Stage Lines.  Your hosts, Eric and Lizzie, will treat you to an authentic stagecoach ride – you can even ride shotgun if you wish! Then join them for a wonderful dinner of steak and all the trimmings in their great ranch house. This is truly the closest thing you’ll get to the old west.  Keep an eye out for stage robbers along the way.

Hell’s Backbone Grill – Boulder, UT – Don’t let the name fool you. This food is about as heavenly as it gets!  Getting to Hell’s Backbone Grill is an adventure along Scenic Byway 12 (between Bryce Canyon and CapitolReef.) I highly recommend that you stay at the Boulder Mountain Lodge so you can truly enjoy a leisurely dinner and breakfast. In fact, you may decide to stay several nights so you can try out a number of menu items. The little town of Boulder is among the country’s most remote hamlets and was the last location in the continental U.S. to stop receiving its mail delivery by mule!  The grounds of the lodge and restaurant are serene and beautiful. Hell’s Backbone serves organic, locally produced, regionally and seasonally appropriate cuisine.  Many of their vegetables are grown in their own organic gardens and on their six-acre farm. They feature dishes made with fruit from Boulder’s heirloom orchards and rely largely on local ranchers for the natural meat they serve.  A sampling of the menu includes cream of jalapeno and avocado soup, skillet fried trout with blue corn, molasses and pecans. For dessert – chocolate-chile cream pots. I’ve truly died and gone to heaven!

Café Diablo – Torrey, UT – I’m not sure why the best restaurants in this area have chosen devilish names but who cares when the food is this spectacular.  Café Diablo is located a short distance from Capitol Reef National Park in the town of Torrey, Utah.  Now tell me, where else can you find free range rattlesnake cakes with ancho-rosemary aioli?  Try the Mayan tamale or the pumpkin seed trout.  Actually, try any of the yummy dishes on the menu. You’ll also enjoy the colorful, whimsical artwork.  After a little hiking in Capitol Reef, you won’t feel guilty about having dessert!

Grand Canyon South Rim:

El Tovar Lodge

El Tovar Lodge – The dining room at El Tovar has served up wonderful meals for many years. If you’re thinking trail mix and beef jerky, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the crab stuffed Idaho trout or wild Alaskan salmon tostada. I rarely begin a Grand Canyon hike without having breakfast at El Tovar.  Reservations for dinner are strongly recommended.  Dinner reservations can be made 6 months in advance with El Tovar room reservations and 30 days in advance without El Tovar room reservations.  928.638.2631, ext. 6432 or send e-mail to eltovar-dinner-res-gcsr@xanterra.com.  Bonus: The dining room windows have a great view of the Grand Canyon.

Also see the dessert section for more information.

Near Grand Canyon North Rim:

Grand Canyon North Rim Lodge – This is another place where the view is a perfect complement to the food. The restaurant serves hand cut all natural beef and poultry, organic produce and wines.  Bonus: Be sure to grab a glass of wine and enjoy the spectacular outside patio.

Jacob Lake Lodge – If you’re hungry for a good old burger and fries, pull in at the Jacob Lake Lodge about 45 minutes from the Grand Canyon north rim. Yes, there are lots of other good choices on the menu but sometimes The Grand Bull just hits the spot. If you’re really feeling decadent, add one of the berry shakes (so thick you can stand a spoon up in the glass.)  See the dessert section for their wonderful bakery goods.

Clif Dweller's Lodge

Cliff Dwellers Lodge – Many folks zoom past Cliff Dwellers in a mad dash to get to the Grand Canyon North Rim (or the opposite direction to Lake Powell.)  Do yourself a favor and plan a stop at this unassuming little spot on Highway 89A.  Better yet, spend the night at the lodge and enjoy dinner followed by a star-filled sky.  Stick around another day for some world class fishing on the Colorado River with a local guide. The dinner menu changes from time to time but expect an eclectic combination of southwestern style fajitas to sesame crusted Ahi tuna and New Zealand rack of lamb. Bonus: You are just a few miles from Lee’s Ferry where most Grand Canyon river trips begin. The historic homestead is worth a visit. You may also have an opportunity to see California condors flying or roosting near Navajo Bridge.

So, let’s start with the little guys – hummers. Hummingbirds can be found throughout the Southwest during the summer season. One of the very best hummer experiences, however, is Southern Arizona between May and early October. The greatest diversity of species is generally found late July through early September—up to 15 varieties.  The Nature Conservancy’s 300-acre Ramsey Canyon Preserve south of Sierra Vista, Arizona is a favorite.  Madera Canyon is another great choice.  If you are in the Tucson area, visit the Arizona Sonoran Desert Museum.  Their hummingbird aviary is a wonderful spot to spend time while the hummers buzz around you!  The bonus is that you’ll also experience a number of other Sonoran Desert creatures such as ravens, mountain lions, desert big horn sheep and reptiles.

In 1996, the Peregrine Fund began the project of reintroducing the California condor to areas north of the Grand Canyon. These amazing birds are the largest flying land birds in North America with wingspans of almost 10 feet.  The release site was in the Vermilion Cliffs area en route to the Grand Canyon north rim.  Over the years, the condors have made their way back to the Grand Canyon and some areas of Southern Utah near Zion Canyon.  If you visit Grand Canyon, be sure to check with the rangers about possible locations to view these incredible birds. They may not be the most beautiful (unless you are another condor) but watching them in flight or playing joyfully is truly a treat. Another good viewing spot is from Navajo Bridge near Lee’s Ferry. To view the condor release site, continue on Highway 89A toward Jacob Lake and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Drive approximately 40 miles (past Marble Canyon, Vermilion Cliffs, and Cliff Dwellers), turn right onto House Rock Valley Road (BLM Road 1065) just past the House Rock Valley Chain Up Area. Travel approximately 2-3 miles to a condor kiosk and shaded viewing area on the right. Atop the cliffs to your east is the location where condors are released, and a good place to see condors year round.  For updates about the condor project, visit the website for the Peregrine Fund.

No matter where you go in the Southwest, you’ll find great birding. In southern Utah, I enjoy the riparian areas in Zion National Park and the hike to Calf Creek Falls off of Scenic Byway 12 between Bryce Canyon and Torrey. I’ve often seen bald eagles between Kanab, Utah and Bryce Canyon.  I’ve also enjoyed watching hawks soar over Bryce Canyon from one of the quieter overlooks. I perched a small camp chair near the rim at Rainbow Point and watched hawks gliding on thermals all afternoon.  For beautiful voices, you can’t beat the sound of a canyon wren in the Grand Canyon area.  Their haunting melody echoes off of the walls and keeps me company during my hikes.

Birding Festivals:  You may enjoy scheduling your visit to take advantage of any of the following birding festivals in the Southwest.

Arizona:

Wings Over Wilcox – Sandhill Crane Celebration www.wingsoverwilcox.com
Yuma Birding Festival – www.yumabirding.org
Verde Valley Birding Festival – www.birdyverde.org

Colorado:

Ute Mountain Mesa Verde Birding Festival – www.utemountainmesaverdebirdingfestival.com

Albuquerque:  Visitors to Albuquerque can get an excellent introduction to Native American cultures at the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center.  This is the official visitor center for the 19 pueblos of New Mexico and is the perfect starting point for your journey through the area. 

Acoma Sky City

Approximately 60 miles west of Albuquerque off of I-40 is Acoma Sky City.  This is a “must stop” on your journey. While the casino will be the first thing to catch your eye, the real treat is a visit to the new Cultural Center and the Enchanted Mesa.  The cultural center features both permanent and changing exhibits in an architectural gem. The building reflects traditional pueblo architecture mixed with modern elements. Pick up your tour tickets and travel with your guide to the mesa top.  The walking tour takes in the entire village including a lovely church and stops at the homes of local artists. Once the tour concludes, you are welcome to go back and visit with the artists on your own and catch a later shuttle back down to the visitor center. If you’re up for a walk, the ancient path from the mesa top to the valley floor is worth the effort.  Artists also display in the visitor center gift store and at kiosks in the courtyard. If you have time, take the loop road that leads back to I-40 for a glimpse of life on the Acoma Reservation.

El Malpais National Monument

Once you connect with I-40, continue west about 15 miles to the exit for New Mexico Highway 53.  This route takes you to Zuni Pueblo; on the way, visit El Malpais National Monument.  The impressive lava flows in the area were produced by volcanoes that were active until about 800 years ago. A number of ice caves can also be found in the region.  Bandera Ice Cave (private enterprise) is open to the public.  Travel a bit farther to BIA Road 125 approximately 10 miles east of Ramah, New Mexico and search out the Wild Spirit Wolf Sanctuary.  Tours are offered six days a week. For a special treat, camp at the sanctuary campground within “howling distance” of the wolves.

When you arrive at Zuni Pueblo, make a stop at the visitor center for an overview and to pick up information for your visit.  You’ll also find beautiful art, jewelry and crafts. Be sure you don’t miss stopping for bread and sweets baked in traditional earthen ovens.  The highlight of your visit will be the old Zuni Mission. The murals here are known the world over.  An admission is charged but you will not be disappointed by your visit.  If you have time, the visitor center can also arrange private visits with local artists.

A visit to New Mexico would not be complete without a sojourn in Santa Fe.  Since this section concentrates on Native American culture, you may wish to refer to the sightseeing section for other suggestions.  Be sure to spend time at the historic Plaza.  Local pueblo artists display jewelry, pottery and other crafts on the sidewalks.  Then take a walking tour of Santa Fe with a local guide.  You’ll visit the Loretto Chapel with its miraculous spiral stairway, Mission San Miguel, the Palace of the Governors and much more. This is definitely the best way to learn about Santa Fe’s rich history.  Of course, you’ll want to visit the galleries and dine at any one of the many fine restaurants.  Don’t miss Museum Hill where you can visit the Museum of International Folk Art, Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian, Museum of Indian Arts and Culture and the Museum of Spanish Colonial Arts. There is one admission fee for all of these excellent facilities. Spend the day and enjoy lunch at the Museum Hill Café.

Santuario de Chimayo

From Santa Fe, take the scenic High Road to Taos.  While not the most direct route, it is by far the most interesting. Be sure to stop at the Santuario de Chimayo, sometimes referred to as the Lourdes of America.  Each year, over 300,000 people make pilgrimages to this small mission. It is said that the holy soil from the shine has healing powers.  A small room off of the main sanctuary yields crutches, braces, photos and other testimonials to these healing powers.

Continue on the High Road to Las Trampas and visit the Church of San Jose de Gracia.  Established in 1751, this is a fine example of adobe architecture and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.  From here to Taos, the scenery will be your center of attention. Take time to stop for photos and enjoy the ride. 

Taos: The atmosphere in Taos is about one hundred eighty degrees from its upscale cousin, Santa Fe. The attitude here is more relaxed and intimate. See our sightseeing section for ideas about dining and hotels.  Your visit to Taos should include a half day to see the Taos Pueblo.  This breathtaking village has been continuously inhabited for 1,000 years.  There is an admission fee of $10 per person and you can join a walking tour with local Tewa guides.  Afterward, you’ll have time to visit with local artists and enjoy the spectacular scenery of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains.  If you wish to take photos, you must purchase a camera permit.  Please remember that you must ask permission before taking photos of any Taos residents.   

Bandelier National Monument: A visit to Bandelier is a real treat.  Located near Los Alamos, Frijoles Canyon is a veritable oasis filled with fascinating ruins. Here, you can actually climb ladders up into some of the higher cliff dwellings for a closer look.  Imagine what it must have been like for the early inhabitants to live in this precarious environment.  If you are uncomfortable with heights, a nice walk along the canyon floor will give you ample opportunities to view the dwellings.  As you walk farther into the canyon, you’ll find nice shady spots where you can perch on a log and have a nice picnic. A wonderful companion book for this visit is The Delight Makers by Adolph Bandelier, the archaeologist for whom the park is named.  <link>

Chaco Canyon

Chaco Canyon: One of the most impressive sites in the Southwest is Chaco Canyon National Historical Park.  The more advanced architecture, high level of social structure and unique “roads” make this a must see.  Chaco was apparently a gathering place where many people from various clans came together to share ceremonies.  Massive kivas and a variety of astronomical markers are of particular interest.  Be sure to allow ample time to explore this area.  Since the park is fairly remote, you should plan to overnight in one of the nearest towns, such as Bloomfield or Farmington on the north or Grants to the south on I-40.

Mesa Verde

If you want a more remote and personal experience, visit Ute Mountain Tribal Park. Although you won’t find interpretive signs and museums, you will have a personalized visit with a Ute Mountain tribal representative.  Arrange in advance for your tour and be prepared to hike, climb ladders and experience life without guardrails.  Tours begin at the Tribal Park Visitor Center at the junction of Highways 160/491, 20 miles south of Cortez.. While the trails are not particularly difficult, anyone with fear of heights might find some sections a bit uncomfortable.

Hovenweep National Monument

Also in this area is Hovenweep National Monument, located approximately one hour from Cortez on County Road G.  (Alternative is Hwy. 491.) On the way, be sure to stop at the Ismay Trading Post. This is the real deal – not just a tourist stop.  You’ll find practicalities mixed in with a few pieces of jewelry, snacks and sodas. Notice the Navajo rugs on the floor in the back room being used as they were originally intended. Once you arrive at Hovenweep, take time to see the informational film shown in the visitor center.  Then take the 2-mile loop trail to visit fascinating ruins in the canyon and on the rim.  This hike is generally easy but you’ll want to take your time as you could easily miss the dwellings that blend so well with the surrounding rock formations.  Other ruins are located on more primitive roads and accessible by hiking. Check with the rangers for more information.

Southern Colorado is filled with archaeological sites though not all are open to the public.  One of our favorite spots is the Sand Canyon area.  If possible, leave your car at the south end of the trail and shuttle to the north trailhead so you can enjoy the one-way through hike. Take Highway 491 south from Cortez and turn right (west) on County Road G for 12 miles. To reach the north trailhead, drive north from Cortez on Highway 491, then go west about 8.5 miles on County Roads P and N. A detailed map is available at the Anasazi Heritage Center. The canyon, surrounding cliffs and interesting ruins are off the path of most tourists.  You’ll enjoy wonderful scenery, solitude and a series of smaller ruins along the way.

Mancos Valley Stage Lines

During summer months, check with the Cortez visitor center for information on dances, storytelling and other activities open to visitors.  Then mix in a little of the wild west with an authentic stagecoach ride and steak dinner at the Mancos Valley Stage Lines in Mancos, Colorado.  The lovingly restored stagecoaches are pulled by impressive horse teams through a valley dotted with cottonwood trees and fields.  Watch out for robbers along the way!  Then enjoy the yummy steak dinner and all the trimmings.  

Grand Canyon South Rim: 

For an easy walk, take the rim trail.  This is a path along the top of the Grand Canyon rim.  You can hike from the Village area or take the West Rim tram (in season) out towards Hermit’s Rest and hop off at one of the viewpoints along the way. This is a fairly level walk with views of the canyon all along the way.  Keep in mind that even the easy hike has no guardrails. If you are hiking with children, be aware.

Bright Angel Trail

For beginners, there are two good hikes under the rim. The Bright Angel Trail is busiest of all the inner canyon trails.  Water stations are located at 1.5 and 3.0 miles as well as at Indian Gardens (4.5 miles.)  If you are a novice, try hiking to the 1.5 mile mark. If you want to test your fitness, walk down 15 minutes and then turn around and hike UP! You’ll quickly get a sense of the true nature of canyon hiking.  Those in good condition may choose to hike to Plateau Point for a straight-down view of the Colorado River. This is a round trip of approximately 12 miles.  The section from Indian Gardens to the point is 3.4 miles of flat terrain. Just remember that you have over 4 miles of uphill once you return to Indian Gardens.

Another good introduction to Canyon hiking is the South Kaibab Trail. This wide open path has fantastic views along the way but is steeper than Bright Angel and there are no water sources. Access the trail via the park shuttle. Check with the ranger station for current departure times.  A good day hike is to Cedar Ridge at mile 1.5. The ridge has great views and comfortable spots for a picnic.

Two other trails will get you away from the constant flow of hikers on Bright Angel and South Kaibab. One is the Grandview Trail, located at Grandview Point about half way out the East Rim drive.  This trail is not the maintained “highway” you find in the previous two descriptions. The trail is rocky and steep but easy to follow-nothing technical. A good day hike is to Horseshoe Mesa.  There is no water available unless you intend to continue to Cottonwood Creek (off the west side of the mesa) or hike to Miners’ Springs off the east side. I do not recommend the latter. Although I hiked off the east side a number of years ago, reports are that the trail has since eroded away in places.  The Grandview Trail is a good place to begin a multi-day trip under the rim.  Watch for upcoming multi-day trail information.

Hermit Trail

The Hermit Trail was originally an Indian route that was later improved by prospectors.  Located at the end of the west rim drive just beyond Hermit’s Rest, this trail is primarily used by backpackers. It eventually leads to the Colorado River and also connects with other backcountry trails.  The trek to Santa Maria Springs is a good short day hike.  Alternatively, you can head to Dripping Springs for a round trip of about 6.5 miles. The trail, especially near the top, is fairly steep and rocky; some sections have been reinforced with cobble.  I have hiked this trail in winter months and found it to be dangerously icy. By contrast, it can be very hot in summer with no shade to be found. From Santa Maria Springs, you can begin to see the trail as it breaks through the Redwall Limestone.  This section of switchbacks is known as Cathedral Stairs and I must admit to praying for strength when coming up that section on a backpacking trip! Even if you hike a short distance, you’ll enjoy much more solitude here than on the busy corridor trails. Once again, remember to take plenty of water and food for your trek.

Hoop Dancing at the Heard Museum

Phoenix: Located just north of downtown Phoenix on Central Avenue, the Heard Museum contains one of the best collections of Native American arts and cultural displays anywhere in the U.S.  Spend a few hours here and you’ll learn a great deal about the cultures that made their home in Arizona and the Southwest.  It will be time well spent before you start your journey.  Hint: Check the museum website for special events.  The annual hoop dance competition is fantastic!

Flagstaff: There are several prehistoric Native American destinations just a short drive from Flagstaff. Walnut Canyon National Monument protects numerous small cliff dwellings.  The Island hiking trail was recently reopened, allowing visitors to get a first-hand look at the ruins. The trail is only a mile in length with an elevation change of 185 feet. Just remember that you are hiking at 7000’ elevation, so it won’t be quite as easy as it sounds.  Also plan to visit the combined parks of Wupatki and Sunset Crater.  You’ll see the remnants of the last volcanic eruption in Arizona (stop at the Bonita Lava Flow) and visit several ancient pueblo sites on this loop drive. The ruins here are quite different from the cliff dwellings at Walnut Canyon, making for an interesting contrast.  Be sure to walk the entire paved loop trail at the main Wupatki ruin.

Wupatki National Monument

There is a nice picnic site midway through the loop drive with excellent panoramic views of the Painted Desert cliffs.  At the end of the loop, you’ll be near the settlement of Cameron. A visit to the historic Cameron Trading Post is a great choice. You can try their excellent Navajo tacos or fry bread and shop for jewelry, pottery and other items. Be sure to take a look at their old pawn jewelry. They often have some beautiful pieces available for sale along with more contemporary styles.

Tuba City:  The small town of Tuba City is unassuming but it is home to the Explore Navajo interactive museum. This display was originally part of the Olympic venue in Salt Lake City, UT.  Displays help the visitor understand much about the Navajo culture, creation stories, art forms and more.  Next door is a very informative display honoring the Navajo Code Talkers of World War II.  Spend a couple of hours at these exhibits and then shop at the Tuba Trading Post.  

Hopi Mesas: It is difficult to pick one destination that most embodies the Native American pueblo cultures but among the top choices are the Hopi Mesas of Arizona.  First, Second and Third Mesas are located approximately 45 miles from Tuba City. The windswept mesas have changed little over the centuries and although tourists are welcome in some areas, the area is far from commercial.  The Hopi Cultural Center on Second Mesa is your best place to start.  A small museum and restaurant are located at the center.  Try some local dishes in the restaurant and order piki bread as a side.  Piki is tissue thin bread made from blue corn meal.  The batter is mixed with culinary ash and spread on a flat cooking stone heated in a fire. The resulting “scrolls” of piki have a unique corn flavor and practically melt in your mouth. Check at the visitor center to see if ceremonial dances are open to the public. Not all dances can be attended by visitors, but if you are fortunate to attend, it is an honor you will never forget.  Remember to leave all cameras and writing materials in your car.  Photos and drawings are strictly prohibited and your camera can be confiscated if you insist upon bringing it along. Remember to sit or stand quietly and observe.  I also recommend a tour of First Mesa to visit the village of Walpi.  Begin at Ponzi Hall where you will meet your guide for a walking tour. Walpi is at the very tip of the mesa top and has neither electricity nor running water. Local artists display their pottery and other crafts for sale. This is a great opportunity to meet members of the community.  

Navajo National Monument

Monument Valley Area:   Before you reach Kayenta and Monument Valley, be sure to stop at Navajo National Monument.  A brief walk takes you to the overlook of Betatakin (“ledge house”) ruins. This is a beautiful cliff dwelling dating back to the Anasazi culture.  Better yet, take a ranger-guided hike down to the canyon floor for an up close view of the ruins.  The hike is offered twice daily during the summer season and the number of visitors is limited each day.  If you are camping at the monument, you can put your name on the list the day before. Otherwise, plan to get there early as spaces are first come, first served. Hikes are typically offered at 8:15 a.m. and 11:00 a.m. but you should check for any schedule changes.  The round trip is five miles.

If you enjoy backpacking, I highly recommend that you contact the ranger office at Navajo National Monument and apply for a permit to visit Keet Seel. The ruins are only accessible via a 17-mile round trip hike. Camping is permitted (but the number of hikers is limited each day) and you can apply two months in advance of your visit.  Visiting Keet Seel is an incredible experience and you’ll enjoy solitude not found at some of the larger parks.  Hint:  Take along Ann Zwinger’s book “Wind in the Rocks” for some insightful reading.  <link to Amazon>

Monument Valley (Arizona/Utah border): One look at the rock formations of Monument Valley and you’ll immediately think of John Wayne westerns or any of the many other movies featuring this broad landscape.  In fact, stop at the movie museum near Gouldings Lodge for a bit of movie history. This was one of John Ford’s favorite places to film.  Today, visitors can visit John Ford Point via one of the scenic jeep tours that travel the 17-mile scenic drive among the rock formations.  Although passenger cars can access a few miles of the drive, a jeep tour is truly the best way to go. You’ll travel with a Native American tour guide and see sites that would otherwise be missed.  In addition, you’ll stop at a Navajo hogan (dwelling) and learn about the weaving of those gorgeous Navajo rugs.  Hint: The newly opened Monument Valley View Hotel is positioned just above the Valley with magnificent vistas.   

If you prefer to escape the crowds, visit Valley of the Gods just thirty-three miles north of Monument Valley. This unpaved loop road is passable by car in good weather and you’ll enjoy similar scenery to Monument Valley but with few people. Valley of the Gods Bed & Breakfast, a small guest ranch house, is located on this loop road. This hidden gem is a great place to spend the night. Wide open skies, solitude, coyotes and countless stars are your reward. Be sure to plan ahead for this treat.  Although technically in southern Utah, we’ve grouped this stop with Monument Valley and other northern Arizona destinations.

Canyon de Chelly

Chinle, AZ/Canyon de Chelly: Although the National Park Service manages the national monument, Canyon de Chelly truly reflects its Native American heritage. Ancient Anasazi cliff dwellings, including the impressive White House ruin, can be accessed by taking a Navajo guided tour in large 6 x 6 wheel drive military style vehicles or via guided horseback rides. The Navajo perspective of these dwellings is well worth the cost.  The tours stop at White House ruin where you can buy jewelry directly from Navajo vendors.  Along the way, you’ll pass the dwellings, corn fields and orchards of the Navajo families that now live at the bottom of the canyon.  If you prefer being on foot, a mile long trail leads from the south rim drive on the canyon rim to White House ruin. The trail has a few steep, rocky sections but is not difficult. This is the only trail that can be accessed without a Navajo guide.  If you arrive via your own 4-wheel drive vehicle, consider hiring a Navajo to take you to one of the more remote trails in the canyon.  One of my most memorable experiences in this area was hiking with a local guide.  The hand and foot holds were not for the faint of heart, but the reward was a solitary view of the canyon from a perch high above most travelers reach. Check at the visitor center for rates and details.

If you have time, plan to travel on to New Mexico and visit Chaco Canyon. (See the New Mexico section for details.) The very best way to do so is to take the scenic drive over the Chuska Mountains (State Route 13.)  Be sure to fuel up your car since you will be seeing no gas stations and very few other people along the way. This winding road includes some fantastic views of the Four Corners area. There is a small picnic wayside part way through the drive. Be sure to stop for photos and views. Caution: This is not a drive to attempt during winter months! Elevations at the top are over 8,000’ and snowy in winter.

Grand Canyon is by far the most recognizable icon of the Southwest U.S. Millions of visitors enter the national park gates every year, making it difficult to find solitude at the busy South Rim.  Even so, you can still find a quiet spot with a bit of effort.  You can take advantage of off season travel, visit the more remote North Rim or just take time to walk a short distance away from the busiest viewpoints.  

El Tovar Lodge

Shoulder season months such as March and November can be excellent times to plan your visit.  You’ll miss the large crowds of late spring and summer. Grand Canyon can be fickle in winter. Many days are clear and crisp with a beautiful mantle of snow.  Some of my favorite photos of the Canyon are from sunny winter days.  If you happen to visit during a snowy day, however, you just might see a cloud bank at your feet as opposed to a canyon!  If you visit in winter, be prepared with several layers of warm clothing and finish your day in front of the roaring fire at either Bright Angel or El Tovar Lodge.  Try to plan more than one day in case the weather does not cooperate for your visit.  Drive carefully as roads in the park are often not as well plowed as main thoroughfares.  Keep an eye toward the weather patterns.  You may be able to see the trailing edge of a weather front (generally moving west to east) and choose viewpoints that have a clearer view.  Watch you step! Parking areas, trails and viewpoints can be slippery. 

The Grand Canyon North Rim is only open from sometime in May to early October. There are fewer easily accessible viewpoints at the more remote North Rim, but the views are quite spectacular. Be sure to take the scenic drive to Cape Royale and Point Imperial.  Lodging is available at the North Rim Lodge and cabins or in the campground.  (link to hotel booking source?) These fill quickly, so plan ahead. An alternative is 43 miles away at Jacob Lake Lodge. Hint: The cozy cabins and lemon zucchini cookies baked fresh at Jacob Lake Lodge help make up for the fact that you aren’t right at the rim.

At the South Rim, the best way to get away from the crowds is to take a walk. Depending on your energy level, you can take a walk along the rim or test your fitness with a hike under the rim (see our adventure section.)  If you are a casual sightseer, I suggest you grab your camera and take a walk along any section of the path along the Grand Canyon Rim.  This footpath is paved in the most highly traveled sections but walk a bit farther and you’ll find more solitude and continuous views along the way.  When the free shuttle isoperating, hop on board, choose a viewpoint that suits your walking distance and then walk back to Grand Canyon Village.  Another great walk is from Yavapai or Mather viewpoint to the Village. These areas are accessed from the Village loop shuttle.  Whichever you choose, the elevation change is minimal and you’ll encounter fewer people than at the busy overlooks. Plus, you’ll feel much better about having dessert with dinner.

Don’t Miss:

Sunrise or Sunset:  Several viewpoints draw large crowds at the Grand Canyon near sunset. Hopi Point on the West Rim is probably the most popular but if you opt for Mohave Point, you’ll still enjoy a great sunset with fewer people.  There may not be a “best” spot for sunrise – don’t fret about where to go, just sit and enjoy nature’s artwork.

Imax Theatre: “Hidden Secrets of the Grand Canyon” is shown daily and provides viewers with a vicarious raft ride on the Colorado River rapids, a bird’s eye view from the air and much more. Imax is located about six miles from the South Rim in the village of Tusayan. <ck Viator for a ticket link?>

Helicopter Flight: They might stretch your budget but well worth it!  Flights depart from the airport a few miles from the South Rim. <link to Viator?> 

Condors:  The California condor was reintroduced north of Grand Canyon under the direction of the Peregrine Fund. These amazing birds can often be seen below viewpoints near the Grand Canyon village area. Check with Park rangers for the best places to look for them.  If you are interested in condors, we recommend Condors in Canyon Country.

Combine With:

If you are curious about the Native Americans that inhabited this area, be sure to visit Wupatki/Sunset Crater National Monument.  This loop drive off of Highway 89 north of Flagstaff contains numerous ancient pueblo ruins and impressive lava flows from the last volcanic eruption in Arizona (Sunset Crater.)  If you entered Grand Canyon National Park from Highway 64 near Williams, exit from the East Rim and allow yourself an extra 2 hours or more to visit this area.  Plan to have lunch at Cameron Trading Post after leaving Grand Canyon and try the Navajo Taco.

Lowell Observatory

Lowell Observatory: The dwarf planet Pluto was discovered from here in 1930 and the clear night skies around Flagstaff still make for impressive stargazing. Check to see if a night program is scheduled during your visit.

The red rock country of Sedona is located on Highway 89A south of Flagstaff.  It is known for its art galleries and the brilliant red rock formations throughout the area.  Be sure to take the scenic drive down Oak Creek Canyon via 89A and stop at the overlook for a great view. During summer months, Slide Rock, a naturally carved chute worn smooth by Oak Creek, is a favorite for children. Adults will also appreciate the historic homestead and orchards perched above the creek.  For great hiking ideas, see our adventure section.  Be sure to visit the unique shops of Tlaquepaque, patterned after a Mexican artisan village. Two other great stops are Red Rock Crossing and Red Rock State Park.  The former has cool swimming holes and a scenic walking trail with views of Cathedral Rock.  Red Rock State Park has great exhibits about the area and an easy hiking loop.

Resources:

“A Field Guide to the Grand Canyon 2nd Edition” This is a great overall guide to the geology, flora and fauna of the Grand Canyon ecosystem.